シュヴァルの理想宮

 Palais (Idéal) du Fateur Cheval

 

緑に囲まれた庭の中に、それはいきなり現れた。

パリから電車を乗り継いで5時間半。南フランス、オートリーヴという片田舎の町にそれは誇らしげに、なおひっそりと立っていた。

 

僕がまだ20代の頃、愛してやまない澁澤龍彦の書物の中に書かれていた不思議な建造物。

19世紀の終わり頃、この村に住むフェルディナンド・シュヴァルという郵便配達夫が配達の仕事の道すがら気に入った石を集めてポケットや布袋に入れて持ち帰った、そののちに手押車を使ってコツコツと家に運び、休み休みに自分のための「お墓」を建て出した。

33年という気が遠くなるほどの年月をかけて建てた彼の夢の建物は、結局お墓では許可が下りずに巨大なオブジェのような建物になった。

ちなみに彼がこの仕事?に取り掛かったのは彼が43歳の時である。

 

そして、彼の思い描いていた理想の宮殿。「シュバルの理想宮」が誕生した。

若い頃からいつか行ってみたいと憧れていた。50歳を超えてからやっと出会えた。 

 

             長い時間がかかったなあ。

 

“It” suddenly appeared in the yard that is full of greenery .

After five and a half hours of train ride from Paris,“it” was proudly, yet quietly, standing still right in front of my eyes,in the rural town of Hauterives, in southern France.

 

“It” is a mysterious building that I found in the books of Tatsuhiko Shibusawa (who holds my adoration and respect forever) when I was still in my twenties.

Around the end of the 19th century, a postman named Ferdinand Cheval picked up collecting stones that he liked during his daily mail round. He put them  in his pockets or cloth bag and carried them back home each day. Then eventually, he started building a "grave" for himself in stages by collecting more stones with a wheelbarrow  By the way, he was 43 years old when he started this project, which became a huge “objet d’art” instead of a grave since it could not obtain permission.  

 

After 33 years of work, his life building Le Palais idéal (the "Ideal Palace") was born.

Since I was young, I had been longing to visit there someday, and I finally did after 30+ years.

 

               It took me a long time, but worth it.

            

 


理想宮にて

明日はいよいよ理想宮に行くというときに家内と諍いがあり、一人で行こうと決めたら彼女が折れてきた。彼女は2度目のパリ旅行で、せっかくの短い旅の貴重な1日をそんな得体の知れないものを見に行くことに費やすことに賛成できなかったみたいで、ご機嫌斜めのまま早朝のリヨン駅まで不機嫌だった。

僕だって言葉の通じないフランスの田舎町なんかに無事にたどり着けるかどうか不安だった。

どうにかオートリーヴに着きタクシーで理想宮までと伝えたら、なんと、時間がなくて諦めていた彼の墓所(これもシュヴァル自身が建てた)に寄ってくれた!。いきなりラッキー!。摩訶不思議な彼の墓を見た時点でもう感動してしまい、理想宮に着いた時には興奮マックスだったのを覚えている。

でも、僕は理想宮のことは充分知っていたから落ち着いて対面したのだが、彼女は前知識がないままデコレーションケーキのような、見方によってはグロテスクな建物に出会い興奮して、喜び勇んで理想宮に登り始めた。(理想宮は自由に歩き回れるし、触れることができる。)

あれあれ、昨日の不機嫌はどうしたの?

 

理想宮は想像以上だった。言葉にはならない。とてつもなく感動した。生き方を教わったような気がした。

美術の教育を受けていない、アーチストとして生きてこなかったシュヴァルが、日々目にする絵葉書にインスパイアされて作り出した自分だけの作品。いわば生涯をかけてたった1つの作品を生み出したことに重大な何かを教えられた。いや、気がついた。

 

自分の思うようなものを作ればいいのだ。いつからだっていい。いつまでかかってもいい。数も気にしなくていい。

自分が納得する物ができればそれでいいのだ。商売でやっているわけではないのだから・・・。

 

 

 

A day before the visit to the Ideal Palace, my wife and I had some arguments. It was her second visit to Paris, but she could not agree with me spending a precious day for visiting strange, nonsensical building especially during such a short time we had left for the trip. She eventually gave in after I said to her that I would still go there alone. Yet, she was still in a bad mood on the way to Lyon Station next morning.

I was feeling anxious about whether we would be able to get to a small rural village in France without knowing or how to speak any French, but somehow we managed to get to Hauterives. When I asked a taxi driver to get us to the Ideal Palace, and he stopped by at Cheval’s grave on the way there (which he also built for himself). Lucky us! Especially I was thinking that we would not have time to visit there because of time. . I was really moved when I saw such a mystifying mausoleum he built. By the time we got to the Ideal Palace, my excitement was at the highest.

 

However, knowing about the Ideal Palace well, I was calm enough to see the place for myself, but it was different for my wife. She met this peculiar building that looks like a decoration cake but also grotesque, depending on the point of view, without having any prior knowledge. She was thrilled by this encounter and started to climb the Palace in high spirits. (You can freely walk around and touch the Palace)

Hey, what happened to your bad mood?

 

The Ideal Palace was much more than what I have imagined. No words could possibly describe how I felt. I was extremely moved. I felt like it has taught me a way of life.

 

The Palace was a work of his own creation by Cheval, who did not educate himself in art or lived as an artist, that he was inspired by the postcards he saw on a daily basis. So to speak, his Palace taught me something significant about having only one piece of work in his lifetime. No, I realized its significance.

 

 

Which is that you just have to create something that you desire. It doesn’t matter when to start or how long it takes. You don't have to worry about the quantity either. You just make something that satisfies you, because you are not doing it for business anyways....

 

アングル

午前11時頃に入場して、午前中はわれわれ2人だけ。

お昼から再入場して徐々に人が増えてきた。イタリアから団体客が来ていて、感想を聞いたら「クレイジー」だとのこと。そうなんだろうね。

Enter at around 11 am, and only two of us in the morning.

It has re-entered from noon and people are gradually increasing. A group of customers from Italy came and it was "crazy" when I heard their impressions. That's right.

夜明け前のリヨン駅。まだ頭も写真もボケている。

後はオートリーヴの佇まい。

この旅行は結婚生活約30年の記念で出かけたもので、実はもう15年ほど前のこと。

パリのホテルのコンシェルジェに聞いても知らなかったマイナーな穴場だったのに。

今はもう、理想宮もメジャーになっていろんなイヴェントの舞台になっているらしい。

 

もし生きる目的が見えなくて苦しくて悩んでいる人がいたら是非訪ねて下さい。言葉にできない勇気がもらえること請け合いです。

 

Lyon Station before dawn. My brain was still foggy  just like the blurriness of the photo itself.

The rest are the view of Hauterives.

This trip was actually 15 years ago when we went out to celebrate our 30 years of marriage.

At that time, it was not a little-known place that even a hotel concierge in Paris was not aware of, but now, it seems that the Ideal Palace has gained its popularity, and has also become a stage for various events.

 

If there is anyone who are worried and suffering because you cannot find the purpose of your life, please visit this place. I promise that you will have the courage you cannot describe in words.